The most important rules in dress code is not so important what you are wearing, as how your look corresponds to the place and time. Without this most important a true gentleman skill, it makes no sense to move on in discussion of wardrobe specific details. 

Leaving aside the inevitable exceptions, such as an invitation to a fancy-dress ball or a sand figure festival on a nudist beach, we will focus on more traditional occasions. 

Let us assume that something unexpected happened, and you received an envelope not with another offer from the bank to take out a loan, but a real invitation to a social event or party. It would seem that what could be easier? As a rule, at the end of each invitation the dress code is specified, so that you and other guests look appropriate to the event and do not worry about the degree of formality of a look. 

But then a complete confusion in each code detail interpretation arises. What do these “Lounge Suit” or “Cocktail” really mean? Our ideas about this may differ too much, and the number of variations and exceptions may be so great that it turns into a real exam to test your skills. 

First things first… Today we will only look into the main codes and briefly describe their content and nuances, in order to have a general idea of how your look corresponds to the event to which you are invited. 

And only then, in subsequent publications, we will have a long, but interesting way of learning all the details of a man’s suit and other small mercies that form the image of a real gentleman.

Smart Casual

I propose to go from simple to complex, but not in the sense of simplicity of solutions, but in the sense of the casualness of the image.

Smart Casual, or “elegant casual style” as I prefer to call it, is truly the basics of your taste and style. Specifying this code in the invitation can turn into a real lottery for you, where winning is not guaranteed at all. And do not be surprised if among the relaxed, but elegantly dressed guests, you will definitely meet several worthy people who chose only the latter from the two words “smart” and “casual”. Their brightly coloured T-shirts and snow-white sneakers, of course, will give the event a slightly more festive mood. But it is important to you not to find yourself among these animators. 

In a word, “elegant casual style” should be a little more formal than you might think. Of course, this dress code does not imply a mandatory tie and a specially tailored suit for this occasion… But sneakers and sweatpants are still better left for a gym. 

Instead, try on a pair of informal monokas or loafers in combination with chinos or even jeans (but without holes and buffies in the most immodest places). A freshly ironed shirt or polo shirt with a blazer, jumper or cardigan worn over will perfectly suit to the above. This style is ideal not only for friendly parties, but also for everyday work in the office, unless you serve in a funeral home. 

Business best

Perhaps the favorite code of the movie-spies and secret agents of all shades – from James Bond and Kingsman agents to KGB officers during the Cold War. The image of the white code is based on a perfectly fitting single-breasted or double-breasted suit of dark color. Today, navy blue is increasingly preferred, but I would not discount dark gray tones, perhaps even with discreet stripes or checks. And, of course, — black, unconditionally devoted to the classics and having a solid palette of moods: from solemn to mournful. 

Strict details make the image perfectly balanced: a pressed snow-white shirt with French cuffs on cufflinks, a pocket square, a tie with stripes or small polka dots, thick horn-rimmed glasses and a classic watch on a leather strap. At the end of the image, perfectly polished black classic derbies or Oxfords and, of course, a hat with a brim, as a light shade of foppery. In such a hat, you may easily repeat the gangster style of showing eyes, lifting the brim with two fingers. 

The umbrella-cane in your hand and the general relaxed look seem to put the final point and emphasize that today is an ordinary weekday for you, not marked by any special events. 

Cocktail

Remember the famous James Bond phrase “Shaken, not stirred”? Already in the very name of this code is encoded a penchant for bright impromptu and unexpected combinations. 

This glamorous-sounding dress code was born at the beginning of the last century, when the Roaring Twenties radically changed the fashion and style of clothing, abandoning the traditional values of the Victorian era. The dawn of jazz and Art deco has arrived. Life seemed to be a continuous series of unrestrained parties, the usual stereotypes were broken, and everything seemed easily feasible. 

Yes, the elements of a formal wardrobe were still preserved, but it was no longer a custom-made tuxedo. Just as the once-legendary Colt equalized people, so Cocktail has narrowed the gap between the everyday image and the image designed to be present at high receptions. 

If you have an indefatigable desire to show your individuality, then this is the very case. An unusual crocodile leather belt or a new tie with a bold pattern will come in handy. 

Change from classic Oxfords to foppish monks, and muted suit colors to more vibrant ones. In a word, look as jazzy as your “inner gentleman” can let you. But, still, do not overdo it… The only and most important rule of the Cocktail code:  do not let other guests confuse you with the party host. 

Black Tie

“Bond … James Bond” – this is how a gentleman in a black tuxedo and a bow tie introduced himself to his casino partner in the movie “Doctor No”, 1962. And, despite the fact that this impeccable image has migrated to the shoulders of the waiters of the famous Venetian cafe Florian and the stewards of cruise liners, it still remains the standard of sophistication and masculine elegance. 

The classic Black Tie represents the most formal code degree and consists of a black bow tie itself paired with a classic white shirt with cufflinks. A black tuxedo with an evening vest or belt is combined with trousers of the same color with the obligatory satin stripes on the sides. On your feet, you should wear strict black Oxfords. I do not even need to remind you that they should be polished to the point of resembling the gloss of a grand piano.

In addition to the most formal Black Tie, less formal versions of the code were also released, such as: Black Tie Optional, Velvet Black Tie and even Creative Black Tie, which somewhat devalue the classic image, but these code variations are the ones that may be increasingly found at star-studded events and red carpets. Oh well, evolution tends to diversity and the dress code, in our case, is no exception. 

I must admit that I have a weakness to appear at the event in a velvet tuxedo in the color of bordeaux or navy blue. But if you see me wearing a red polka-dot bow tie or a gold belt, call the police immediately and have them arrest me. 

White Tie

Something happened that was bound to happen sooner or later. And you won the Nobel Prize in Physics, or you were invited to a Royal Family member wedding. 

In any case, you are lucky enough to touch the world of high society and take part in a ceremony where people are sceptical about the new trends of modern progress. And although you can do without more traditional accessories in the form of a top hat on your head, white gloves and a silver-tipped cane, in general, White Tie remains untouched by time and remains the same as it was introduced to us about two centuries ago. 

Now let us focus on what we cannot do without. First of all, only black and only a tailcoat, under which a white shirt made of cotton pique with a removable stand-up collar and double cuffs with cufflinks is worn. Next, and this is very important, only a white bow tie and a low-cut evening vest of the same innocent color. And this simple ensemble is completed by black shoes with thin soles with a mandatory lacquer coating. And to fully immerse yourself in the image of the heroes of Oscar Wilde, you may add a pocket watch on a thin chain, but this is not mandatory. 

By the way, in all my interesting life, I only once received an invitation of this level, which, however, remained unclaimed. The reason seemed to me an acceptable one. The fact is that on the eve of the wedding, the bride suddenly realized that this marriage may not be as happy as the previous three. So, my tailcoat, specially made for this occasion, remained hanging in the closet. Therefore, do not rush to buy such an unclaimed outfit, unless you were born in the Royal Family. In extreme cases, you may always rent it.